In the nineteenth century a new needlework style ‘Art Embroidery’ gave rise to major commercial ventures of the time. The significance of these ventures is explored, particularly the contribution made by women employed in this industry. These ventures stimulated the commercial side of embroidery in the late nineteenth century, by mobilising commercial activity through numerous agencies, department stores, depots and charitable institutions.
This book explores the growth and development of ‘Art Embroidery’ in Britain circa 1870-1890, and gives special consideration to the support received from the art establishment in designing for and educating embroiderers. Initially designing for the massive church building programme being conducted in Britain, the immense popularity of medieval and oriental designs employed in this work, lead also to a demand for secular work. As with all art, design changes are a derivative of social and political changes. These deterministic style changes were reliant upon imperialism, Said’s notion of ‘the other’, but perhaps more interestingly upon white man’s burden of manifest destiny, illustrated by Liberty department store. Finally, the decline of the embroidery business in the British Isles will be examined as work was sent overseas chasing cheaper labour in the colonies.
This book shows the dynamics shaping industrial development and the role of women employed in the industry. In particular the economic significance of the embroidery business to female employment in the nineteenth century will be revealed, as it has been hidden from view, mainly due to employing outworkers, a hidden workforce.

Linda Cluckie is an Associate Lecturer at Sheffield Hallam University in Business Enterprise History and Class Gender and Nation.

Author: Linda Cluckie
Release date: 2008
Format: Paperback, 212 pages
Availability: Available online or direct from the publisher.
Paperback ISBN: 978-0955605574
Paperback Price: £14.99
BIC: AFWK, AKB, AKF, AFW, ACVN, AFH